My obsession with waffles has me fixated on individual ingredients – and coaxing maximum flavor out of each. I’ve certainly explored that with my flour ratios and milk choices, but butter is one facet of my recipes I’ve felt needed more work.

American butter vs. European butter is a fairly minor point when it comes to truly maximizing flavor. What I’ve had in mind is crafting a “butter waffle” – a waffle where virtually all of the fat comes from the butter, rather than from a combination of egg, milk and butter. A twist on that is doing a regular waffle but with browned butter / beurre noisette. I decided that would make the most interesting first step. It’s also a test that could be broadly applicable to a number of my recipes.

Since beurre noisette has less water than regular butter, I’ve trimmed back the total weight of butter here and bumped up the milk content.

Having made them only once now, I’d have to say the beurre noisette flavor is relatively subtle in the finished piece. So I think the next pass is going to remove most or all of the milk, in favor of mineral water, allowing me to bump up the beurre noisette by about 5 grams. I that doesn’t completely do the trick, I’ll swap out some or all of the egg yolk.

Beurre Noisette Waffle

makes 1 round 38mm/1.5″ American-style waffle


Preheat the waffle iron to 191°C/375°F

1. Sift together all of the dry ingredients in a medium bowl.

2. Add the warmed egg, beurre noisette, and half of the milk. Mix until the flour is almost blended.

3. Then add the remaining milk, and whisk to finish blending the ingredients. The batter will be of a fairly thin consistency.

4. Pour the mix into the preheated iron and cook for 3 minutes 25 seconds.

Remove the waffle from the iron and place on a wire rack to cool. When the waffle has cooled below 49°C/120°F, place the waffle back into the iron to cook for 10 seconds longer. Serve immediately.